I try to be an optimist – I don’t think people are born bad, I think their experiences in life make them that way. I’ve got the same attitude to “bad” or “naughty” dogs – they weren’t born like that (and it also didn’t happen over night). I’m going to walk you through some typical naughty dog behaviour and more importantly, help you fix it! To refresh yourself on the basics of training, have a quick read of this.
The “I’m so excited to see you, I must jump on you”.
Does your dog jump up on you, your children and any visitors to your house? They aren’t a naughty dog. They are excited to see said person, but don’t know that it’s rude to jump up. So let’s fix that.
WHY she does it
to jump is to receive attention and be soooo close to you.
WHAT you need to do
as soon as they jump, turn around and cross your arms (ensure this is EVERYONE’s response to this behaviour). When 4 paws are on the floor, apply 10, 000 affection.
alternatively
teach your dog to sit. Have her sit whenever someone arrives – she will get attention as long as she remains sitting. Whenever she stands or jumps, attention goes away.
WHY it works
her aim is getting attention. If jumping gets attention, she will jump. If standing still or sitting gets attention, she will do that instead.
The “BARK BARK BARK BARK BARK”.
Does your dog bark insanely any time people or people with dogs walk the footpath outside your house? He’s not naughty. He is territorial and needs to be socialised. So let’s fix that.
WHY he does it
I am scared and/or angry when I see this thing walk past, so I yell at it. When I yell at it, it goes away.
WHAT you need to do
two part answer – the first part is that you need to teach your dog that people and other dogs walking part are ok. Have a neighbour and a dog owner prepared to do laps outside your front gate. As they walk past, feed him treats. Feed him as many treats as he can handle in a mouthful any time he is calm and not barking. The second part is in the next section!
WHY it works
dogs and people on the street suddenly turn into signals that a treat is coming! They are the treat bringers! I no longer need to yell at them!
The “I hate other dogs”.
Does your dog growl, snarl, bark or carry on when seeing other dogs on a walk? She’s not naughty. She needs reassurance that other dogs are ok, and education about how to interact with other dogs AKA socialisation (see here for a full blog on it). So let’s fix that.
WHY she does it
I don’t see many other dogs and I don’t know how to act appropriately around them, so I’m nasty just in case they are too.
WHAT you need to do
introduce your dog to other dogs, but SLOWLY. Start by watching other dogs from a creepily long distance away and avoid meeting dogs up close. Get closer each week. Reward calm behaviour EVERY TIME. Know your dog and how they are likely to react – don’t push them too far, too fast, this process can take time.
WHY it works
we ease her into interactions with other dogs through CONTROLLED exposure, which limits adrenaline-rush type responses. We show her that being calm and happy around other dogs is a good thing.
The “I have destroyed all your most prized possessions”.
Does you dog have a knack for finding either the thing that you love the most or the thing that was the most expensive and destroying it while you’re not home? They aren’t a naughty dog. They are either bored shitless and full of energy, upset that you have left them by themselves or both. So let’s fix that.
WHY he does it
energy build up, separation anxiety, lack of stimulation. Basically, being in solitary confinement.
WHAT you need to do
walk your dog regularly – once a day is ideal, particularly for ANY working breed. Limit the time your dog spends alone. Make life interesting – provide toys and rotate them frequently, give long lasting treats or hide small ones, let them see the outside world (through the fence or a window). Provide company in the form of a radio switched on, a canine companion or a cuddly toy and blanket. Don’t make a big deal of leaving or coming home.
WHY it works
if dogs are tired they will sleep. If given toys and things to chew, they will stop destroying other things. Company and not even noticing you leave or come back can help to limit separation anxiety.
The “I’m taking the human for a walk”.
Does your dog drag you down the street, zigzagging from lamp post to mail box and back again? She’s not naughty. She has no idea why her throat always hurts or that you would prefer to walk at a regular pace with her by your side. So let’s fix that.
WHY she does it
the more I pull, the more I get to sniff and wee on all the things! Plus, no one’s ever stopped me.
WHAT you need to do
take charge. Decide which poles your dog is allowed to pee on and ONLY allow her to go to those poles. If she pulls towards ANYTHING, do not allow her to get to it. This is your walk, and she’s coming along. Keep her to one side and next to you with a short leash – tell her “AH” and redirect her body if she tries to barge to the other side. Hold a treat over her nose to position her exactly where you want her to walk and reward often. Invest in a front attach harness like this one as a training aid to prevent pulling. For every pull, give a short and sharp (but gentle) tug and tell her “AH”. Reward when not pulling. Don’t exhaust this precious tool – if your dog does not respond, stop walking as soon as they start pulling. Note: this will test your patience to the limits, but it is well worth the commitment to have a dog who doesn’t pull.
WHY it works
She now sees that she’s not allowed to sniff anything she damn well pleases. She also knows that while rushing ahead just causes discomfort, sticking right by you means lots of tasty treats!
A note on “naughty” dogs
Naughty dogs are like naughty children – they haven’t been provided with the rules of engagement, or have been given no incentive to follow them. So really, no dog is to blame for being naughty and no dog is “born bad”. Invest time, treats and patience in your dog and they will return your efforts ten fold in good behaviour.
With love,